EverestQuest-Journal 11

Journal 11: Jim Wickwire’s Departure
by Jim Wickwire

September 5, 2001
Seattle, Washington

Greetings from Seattle. Yes, Seattle.

I am sorry to report that I have had to leave the 2001 American/Canadian Mt. Everest Expedition for reasons beyond my control.

Five days after we established base camp, I walked up a short hill for a radio call and noticed I was unusually short of breath for the 17,000 foot altitude. Immediately, I was struck with the most severe headache in the back of my head that I’ve ever experienced. Nothing like this has ever happened on over 20 major expeditions in 41 years of climbing. In fact, I’ve almost never been troubled by high altitude headaches, a malady that affects most climbers at one time or another.

After communicating via satellite phone with neurologists in the United States, it was suspected that I had a broken cranial blood vessel or possibly an aneurysm. It was imperative to seek medical assistance as our team did not have a doctor in camp. After 20 hours of Jeep travel across Tibet and detouring around several landslides, I reached Kathmandu where I underwent preliminary testing. It was recommended that I travel home for more extensive tests. The Kathmandu doctors had not been able to completely rule out more serious medical problems.

Back in Seattle I was hospitalized for three days, undergoing a series of CT scans, an MRI and an angiogam. Although the doctors have now ruled out a brain hemorrhage or aneurysm, I am undergoing further neurological testing to determine exactly what the problem is.

So, for now, I am communicating with Ed Hommer and the team on a daily basis. My intimate knowledge of Mt. Everest will still allow me to help the expedition, even in the comforts of my own home 12,000 miles away.

I am quite disappointed that I had to leave the team on Everest. However, I keep each and everyone of them in my heart and look forward to their safe and successful return.

--Jim Wickwire, 2001 American/Canadian Team Leader